Gucci, Prada foretell simple elegance for spring

In this story: Feminine and fanciful Black and white RELATED STORIES, SITES

By Giuseppe Ceccarelli
Special to CNN.com

Translated from Italian for CNN.com/Arts & Style

MILAN, Italy (CNN) -- Whether she is sophisticated, elegant or a bit rebellious, next spring's woman will be enchanting -- with every step she takes.

The byword is luxury, even if some designers prefer not to run at breakneck speed toward total ostentation.

That is the case of Gucci and Prada, as seen at last week's spring-summer, ready-to-wear shows in Milan. After dictating the trends for the past several seasons, sowing the seeds of pomp, they have reversed direction and imposed on themselves a new rigor.

Milanese designer Miuccia Prada returns to her fashion roots, using clean lines for her skirts, which are flared or straight and topped by mini-sweaters or short jackets. Her dresses are knee-length.

The colors start with gray, black and blue, but branch out into shiny pink, red and deep yellow. Accessories are limited to high-heeled pumps in various colors and a flat handbag with a single handle.

Gucci's inspiration leans in another direction. The Gucci woman is a dominant creature who follows her fancy. Attention-grabbing bras are revealed under voile blouses, and eyes are drawn to black or white patent-leather pumps. Everything is clean, basic, with no concession to trinkets or other accessories.

What kind of luxury do the other designers talk about? More than ostentation, they emphasize the luxury of being a woman, of being feminine. Their motto is lightness and volume. Aided by soft fabrics and brilliant tailoring, they rediscover the A-line.

Shoulders are often uncovered, or only one shoulder is bared, and that is a must for the new season.

Shirts and tank tops are fitted to the body, thanks to fabrics like chiffon and silk, but also to cotton and jersey. The accent is on fitted lines, following the modern aesthetic that grabs and wraps the body, but flows suddenly with movement.

Belts will make the season's fashion statement: They are worn high or low, in leather or fabric, with buckles or simply knotted, to highlight the waist. Shiny fabrics are the only true heirs of the 1990s luxury.

Beads of every shape and size decorate the outfits, from beautiful Armani trousers to the prints of Missoni to the simple shadings in Pradas's collars.

The fashion vocabulary speaks of feminity, betting on a classic elegance: black and white.

The colors cross over from winter to spring, winning the competition with delicate tones like peach, mint and all the nuances of the desert.

Spring and summer are marked by chicness, stated many ways: from the Greek influences seen in the dresses Lagerfeld designed for Fendi to the Hollywood glamour of Donatella Versace's collection and the Italian cowboy-western irony of Dolce & Gabbana.

Elegance and excess don't disappear, but they change and adapt to the needs of women who want to display both style and quality.

Translation from Italian to English provided by Daniela Berretta of CNN.com/Italia.

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Versace's fall/winter line shouts color
August 30, 2000
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Gucci puts on fresh coat for fall
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Prada parades '40s look for fall
March 16, 2000
Chanel puts spring in Coco-motion
November 16, 1999

Fendi profile (Made in Italy Online)
Gucci

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